Walking on Etna - Ascent routes to the summit craters from Etna Sud

Above: The easy way to get to the summit zone of Mount Etna - jeeps parked at the upper cable car station, Piccolo Rifugio, September 2007
© Mat & Niki Adlam-Stiles, 2007

Taking the cable car on Etna Sud can save you about 500m of ascent and, in my humble opinion, the ~€13 for a one way ticket is well worth it. Ask for a ticket "Solo Andate" for a one way trip. This will get you as far as Piccolo Rifugio at ~2500m, the point from where the Jeeps depart for the now-defunct Torre del Filosofo and the top craters. If you really want, you can get a "one way" ticket to include the jeep, but you have to pay for the full "short tour" and then abandon the group at the top! Expect to wave good bye to ~€35+ for a one-way ticket to the Torre del Filosofo.

Those wishing to shed a few calories (and believe me, you will!) can make the full ascent from Sapienza on foot – gaining a total of some 1000m of altitude. For the navigationally challenged, head for the base of the cable car station.

To the right of it the rather obvious jeep track starts to rise up, and this can be followed along numerous switchbacks to Piccolo Rifugio, and then further upwards to the Torre del Filosofo / Rifugio Alpino. It's not actually the most exciting way to the top, but apart from the altitude gained, it's relatively easy going under foot on clear solid tracks.

If you want to make it especially hard for yourself, follow the "descent via La Montagnola" in reverse. Climbing the ashy slopes is, however, extremely strenuous. You have been warned!

If you're going to do the full ascent from Sapienza by foot, then the ascent via the Schiena dell Asino certainly has something to offer. When things are feisty up-top, it’s a favourite with the locals for gaining a superb vantage point in relative safety.

It’s a short walk from Sapienza down to the starting point of the ascent of Etna via the Schiena del Asino route. Follow the "extended route" up the ridge to the base of La Montagnola, and when you pick up the faint track in the ash cones, turn right to skirt around the East side of the impressive crater. From here you're on the "Descent via Montagnola", but in reverse, and can logically pick up the route along the top (Western) edge of the Valle Del Bove to Belvedere. Hard work, but recommended.

The Jeeps all stop at a small wooded hut & turning/parking area by the now lava-encased Torre Del Filosofo. Assuming you’ve made it as far as the cable car upper base station at Rifugio Piccolo, you have three good options for the ascent. The easiest underfoot, and the easiest to navigate, is to stick with the jeep track. As you exit the cable car station, some steps on the right allow access to the jeep track without getting caught up in the new (2008) turnstiles and the associated touristic throng. This otherwise uninspiring track, on which getting mown-down by a high-speed Unimog is a real possibility, has as its main redeeming feature, ever improving views on the top craters - in particular, as "Sud Est" comes into view steaming away – or more. It also provides a relatively easy-going ascent of the next 400m of altitude.

A short distance before Rifugio Alpino there is an obvious left-hand bend in the Jeep track. Note this point, as it makes for a convenient route toward the eastern side of the craters, and one of the best close-up views of Sud Est.

Proceed along the jeep track to where the new ski-run / cable car comes in on the right, between La Montagnoloa & the adjacent Monte Escriva crater to its North. Either strike off at right angles to the jeep track, and up the pass between the craters along the ski run, or better, walk along the west side of Monet Escriva (the North Crater), and double back on the rough track that climbs (very) steeply to its top. The climb to the top is strenuous and the going is awkward underfoot, but the crater is very impressive, and it's worth the effort. If you've made it to the top of the crater, skirt around to the far (Eastern) side with care – a fall here would be pretty unfortunate - and carefully pick your way down the extremely awkward crater slopes towards the North East. For those who have scrambled along by the new ski lift, trend north (left) around the crater.

Either way, you'll find yourself working towards the upper edge of the impressive Valle del Bove. Head North along the edge, where a rather intermittent stick-and-rope arrangement defines the safe limits for hikers. Make your own judgement of how close to the edge you wish to get – the views are superb, but some of the ground is not to be trusted.

As you proceed Northwards, you'll pass the significant crater, Cisternazza. It's easy to end up on the western side of the Cisternazza crater – the views are better if you keep to East. Peer down into the void, but be warned – those who clamber down its steep, loose sides will seriously struggle to get out! Carrying on hiking Northwards, the "Belvedere" is probably the best vantage point over the whole of the Valle Del Bove, marked by a small shrine.

Work your way along the rope-line until the INGV monitoring station comes into view – easily identified by the large solar panels and other gadgets. It you’re heading towards Rifugio Alpino and the very tops at the Bocca Nuova, you'll want to strike off to the left (West) and rejoin the jeep track before you get to the Monitoring station. Alternatively, there is usually just sufficient shelter adjacent to the station to make a fine spot for lunch, and to observe and contemplate the steamy SE crater!

From Piccolo Rifugio, start walking up the jeep track, as per the other two ascent routes. A short way past the new ski lift the ground opens out – to the right are open views towards the coast and the Valle del Bove, and to the left, the twin craters of the 2001 eruption / Monte Frumento Supino - usually identifiable by the line of tourists being led around the rim of the Northernmost of the craters. A direct-line can be made towards Monte Frumento Supino – you'll note an ashy track heading upwards and right to a point between the two craters. To the base of this track is relatively easy going, although the ground underfoot resembles walking on a sand dune. The pull up the track to the crater rim is a short, yet rather strenuous ascent - those who have taken walking poles with them will be grateful for the extra traction!

The views are, however, well worth it - and if you're traversing round to the Bocca Nuova it makes for a rewarding round-trip. With Sapienza far below you, skirt around the northernmost of the craters whichever way suits, to arrive at the jeep park by Rifugio Alpino.