La Réunion – a four day walk in the Cirque de Mafate

This day's walk is truly varied, with vivid contrasts and unbelievable viewpoints. The path clings to the very edge of the Mafate caldera, through dramatic scenery ranging from gnarled, low-growing trees to watery stepping-stones through lush wet mini-valleys, to then emerge at a heart-stopping ravine plunging into sheer blackness (with a backdrop of sheer, needle-point peaks on the far side), alongside which one walks until a thundering waterfall of tremendous height is met shortly before the river crossing near Les Trois Roches. Although the viewpoint itself is dizzying, the expanses of flat rock to either side of the waterfall, shaded by trees and huge boulders, make an ideal spot for lunch.

The next section of the walk follows a level path alongside the sparkling river until you meet a rather rustic wooden stairway to start the climb up to Marla. The day we did this, the weather was hot, dry and windy so it proved to be a tough afternoon, especially the seemingly never-ending succession of climbs up through stony gullies before reaching a much more level and vegetated plain. At last you reach Marla, a small, pretty village dwarfed by the stunning, soaring spires of rock that cradle and protect it from the weather. You're now standing at the very place that you no doubt took dozens of photos of on Day 1, having to almost lean backwards to marvel at the sheer vertical walls of Le Bénare.

The gardien of the Gite de Marla where we were staying was, however, a bit grumpy. Despite the fact that we'd booked a meal for that evening by phone, she claimed she didn't have our names down for a meal and wasn't about to accommodate us no matter how nicely we asked. (I think the idea of catering for a couple of veggies may have scared her.)

Salvation appeared in the form of a lovely tin shack at the foot of a vertical cliff – the Snack Bar Le Marla, where a pitying proprietress nobly concocted the nearest she could manage to a veggie meal for us – chips, bread, a fresh cabbage salad and a beer to wash it all down! Sheer heaven, and a very welcome alternative to starvation.